(Edit): i can make a circuit schematic of the entire circuitry i made if someone is interested
I got a 405nm laser diode driver (0/250mW) battery BMS (management circuit) and a safety switch soldered on a laser diode board. To turn the laser on, there is an on/off button on the rear of my host, if you push it, nothing happens due to the security switch I designed and build. Its a shock switch. To turn it on, you have to tap it against your leg vertically. This is here to trigger the BMS on. It was a problem but I got it fixed by looking at the G2JF datasheet. However, very complicated. But I got it done.
This circuit took me 5 days to design and make. I even had to put a reverse polarity protection circuit in there since the bms isn't protected against it and I already roasted 5 of them. Those where prototype circuits, this one is completed and fixed against any electrical failures
.
I also bought a 3 element glass lens for 405nm, I took it apart to make it watertight. It was hard as the lenses had to be absolutely clean, but I got it done. Took me 1 complete day.
I also ordered a 5mW red laser module as it was cheap and it has the aixiz housing. Still has to come
and I ordered a SLD3232VF Sony 405nm 50mW 70mA diode. My driver output is 6 volts, this diode is rated for 5.5 volts. This shouldn't be a problem when the current is lower then 70mA right?
The diode still has to come
And I don't have a test load or an ammeter. So next question, can I set the laser driver to its lowest output power, connecting the laser diode and SLOWLY turning the pot when I get around 20mW? I can compare it with an true 20mW 405nM pointer. And the driver has an ceramic capacitor, do I have to discharge that? And how?
This is a very complicated laser pen build. Its even gonna be watertight as this host is watertight and my lens too.resistand to drops and very stormy weathers. I never saw anything like this so small. 11mmx14mm. Host size is 12mm (drilled with an lathe by me for the laser module, and 10mm for the ICR10440 battery. Security switch so no one can operate it unless they know how to turn it on. Intergrated battery protection cicruit for shorts, over current draw and voltage drop (2.20v)
And I made a ultra small connector, making this thing easy to repair. If the diode breaks, all I have to do is unscrew the laser diode thing where it is pressed in from the main body, slam it out, soldering the wires, connect it in the socket en its working. It will cost you 5 min.
All of this in this small package. It took me some good days to engineer and design it. I even destroyed some destroyed playstation 3's for this.
so the questions:
1, am I able to set the power, when the driver is set on its lowest, by slowly turning the pot untill it reaches its max?
2, I've heard a lot about discharging the capacitors on the laser driver before connecting the diode. Do I have to short LD+ and LD- together?
3, I ordered an 5mW red laser module which has almost the same housing as aixiz, but are those lens threads M9 P0.5?
4, what do you think of this build? With all those features? I'm 16 and designed it myself.
5, I will go on vacation this year, so if you are interested in this or very similar laser host, contact me as I might be able to get some more. I got this hosts on august 2014 when I was on vacation in kurdistan, its fully aluminum. Very strong and I can make them watertight. Its laying around for nearly 2 years as a simple flashlight and it collected a good amount of dust untill 5 weeks ago.
(Edit): 6, aixiz housing has 2 parts. The part where you actually press your diode in and where your lens is screwed in, and the botom part, the metal tube which is screwed under the part where the diode is pressed in. You can fit your laser driver in there. But i have a question. This part is screwed on to the diode part. Due to grounding issues and interference with ground on the BMS, i want to isolate the thread from those 2 parts so they are no longer electrically connected together but still attached to each other. For example, the tube part which comes with almost all aixiz housing is input ground, if it touches the diode and lens part, it will bridge the BMS so it doesn't cut the power at 2.20V. I already got it done by isolating the thread with a plastic bag and it works like a charm and it also seals it, but it would be great if someone knows a better idea.
So all in one, how can i isolate an screw thread so it doesn't electrically conduct electricity? In this case, the aixiz housing.
sorry for the long thread and my bad English as I'm Dutch, but I really like to share my laser circuit design and build on this forums, and I need some questions to be answered. Thanks anyways :D
edit:
I can make more pictures if needed!!!!!! Just ask :-)
I got a 405nm laser diode driver (0/250mW) battery BMS (management circuit) and a safety switch soldered on a laser diode board. To turn the laser on, there is an on/off button on the rear of my host, if you push it, nothing happens due to the security switch I designed and build. Its a shock switch. To turn it on, you have to tap it against your leg vertically. This is here to trigger the BMS on. It was a problem but I got it fixed by looking at the G2JF datasheet. However, very complicated. But I got it done.
This circuit took me 5 days to design and make. I even had to put a reverse polarity protection circuit in there since the bms isn't protected against it and I already roasted 5 of them. Those where prototype circuits, this one is completed and fixed against any electrical failures
.
I also bought a 3 element glass lens for 405nm, I took it apart to make it watertight. It was hard as the lenses had to be absolutely clean, but I got it done. Took me 1 complete day.
I also ordered a 5mW red laser module as it was cheap and it has the aixiz housing. Still has to come
and I ordered a SLD3232VF Sony 405nm 50mW 70mA diode. My driver output is 6 volts, this diode is rated for 5.5 volts. This shouldn't be a problem when the current is lower then 70mA right?
The diode still has to come
And I don't have a test load or an ammeter. So next question, can I set the laser driver to its lowest output power, connecting the laser diode and SLOWLY turning the pot when I get around 20mW? I can compare it with an true 20mW 405nM pointer. And the driver has an ceramic capacitor, do I have to discharge that? And how?
This is a very complicated laser pen build. Its even gonna be watertight as this host is watertight and my lens too.resistand to drops and very stormy weathers. I never saw anything like this so small. 11mmx14mm. Host size is 12mm (drilled with an lathe by me for the laser module, and 10mm for the ICR10440 battery. Security switch so no one can operate it unless they know how to turn it on. Intergrated battery protection cicruit for shorts, over current draw and voltage drop (2.20v)
And I made a ultra small connector, making this thing easy to repair. If the diode breaks, all I have to do is unscrew the laser diode thing where it is pressed in from the main body, slam it out, soldering the wires, connect it in the socket en its working. It will cost you 5 min.
All of this in this small package. It took me some good days to engineer and design it. I even destroyed some destroyed playstation 3's for this.
so the questions:
1, am I able to set the power, when the driver is set on its lowest, by slowly turning the pot untill it reaches its max?
2, I've heard a lot about discharging the capacitors on the laser driver before connecting the diode. Do I have to short LD+ and LD- together?
3, I ordered an 5mW red laser module which has almost the same housing as aixiz, but are those lens threads M9 P0.5?
4, what do you think of this build? With all those features? I'm 16 and designed it myself.
5, I will go on vacation this year, so if you are interested in this or very similar laser host, contact me as I might be able to get some more. I got this hosts on august 2014 when I was on vacation in kurdistan, its fully aluminum. Very strong and I can make them watertight. Its laying around for nearly 2 years as a simple flashlight and it collected a good amount of dust untill 5 weeks ago.
(Edit): 6, aixiz housing has 2 parts. The part where you actually press your diode in and where your lens is screwed in, and the botom part, the metal tube which is screwed under the part where the diode is pressed in. You can fit your laser driver in there. But i have a question. This part is screwed on to the diode part. Due to grounding issues and interference with ground on the BMS, i want to isolate the thread from those 2 parts so they are no longer electrically connected together but still attached to each other. For example, the tube part which comes with almost all aixiz housing is input ground, if it touches the diode and lens part, it will bridge the BMS so it doesn't cut the power at 2.20V. I already got it done by isolating the thread with a plastic bag and it works like a charm and it also seals it, but it would be great if someone knows a better idea.
So all in one, how can i isolate an screw thread so it doesn't electrically conduct electricity? In this case, the aixiz housing.
sorry for the long thread and my bad English as I'm Dutch, but I really like to share my laser circuit design and build on this forums, and I need some questions to be answered. Thanks anyways :D
edit:
I can make more pictures if needed!!!!!! Just ask :-)